This timeless, Nordic-inspired crochet Christmas stocking pattern uses the corner-to-corner stitch to create a gift that will be valued for years to come. Get the free pattern below or purchase the ad-free, printable PDF with written c2c instructions here.
This free crochet Christmas stocking pattern is part of a collaboration with Lion Brand Yarn.
Now that we’ve got another Halloween in the books in North America, is it socially appropriate to start talking about Christmas crochet? (Maybe it jumped the gun a bit when I shared the Hygge Holiday Throw pattern last week, but I wanted to give you enough time to finish your blanket AND sip hot chocolate under it before Christmas!)
This “12 Week of Christmas” collection includes my stocking pattern as well as other Christmas-themed gifts, like an amigurumi gnome by 1DogWoof, plus plenty of other non-Christmas projects like sweaters, afghans, scarves and hats that would make wonderful crochet gifts this season. For each of these projects, Lion Brand has created a kit that includes all the yarn necessary to make the project, plus a printed copy of the pattern. And all the kits are 20% off until Christmas! Check them all out here.
I think these kits are a great way to get inspired for some crochet gift giving, but maybe even better, they’re also a way you stash away a little selfish-crochet project for once you’re doing making and doing for everyone else this season. Wouldn’t it be great to know you had a kit waiting for you to crochet a project for yourself come January? Sign me up.
For my contribution to the 12 Weeks of Christmas Collection, I wanted to create a crochet Christmas stocking pattern that was modern, yet timeless and enduring. My hope is that this is a stocking you can make for your kids or your grandkids and they’ll still be happy to pull it out and hang it up in 20 years. Every year, I still use a Christmas stocking my Grandpa Rudy latch-hooked for me when I was a small child. Using it on Christmas morning is one of my favorite traditions.
Even if you’re not familiar with the corner-to-corner crochet (C2C) stitch, this is a perfect project to learn on. The C2C portion of the pattern is quite small and I’ve got a video tutorial about corner-to-corner that’s geared toward absolute beginners. Once you watch that, you can learn how to switch colors in this post. (And you can find all my free C2C patterns here!) The rest of this crochet Christmas stocking pattern is as basic as some good old double crochet.
If this is your first time crocheting with Lion Brand’s New Basic 175, I think you’re going to love how fluffy and luxurious it feels! You can pick up the kit that includes all the yarn you’ll need for this pattern right here.
The corner-to-corner graph for the top band of the stocking can be downloaded for free here. If you’re the kind of crocheter who prefers written instructions for C2C, you can get line-by-line instructions in the ad-free, printable PDF of this pattern, which you can purchase for $2.75 here. (The line-by-line instructions are also included in the Lion Brand kit.)
Do not re-publish this pattern as your own. You may make items to sell with this pattern. In exchange, credit Make & Do Crew as the designer and link back to this post. DoNOT use my photos as your own sales photos. You can read my policies here. Now let’s make something awesome!
The Stockholm Crochet Christmas Stocking Free Pattern
Purchase the ad-free, printable PDF with line-by-line graph instructions for $2.75 here.
Abbreviations and Glossary: ch – chain dc – double crochet tch – turning chain yo – yarn over
RS – right side WS – wrong side tile – one square on the corner to corner graph: 3 ch (the tch) + 3 dc rep – repeat
PM – place marker
Explanation: This Nordic-inspired stocking is made using traditional crochet techniques as well as the corner to corner stitch. The result is a striking accent to your Christmas mantle and would be beautiful as part of a series in different colors.
Overall Pattern Notes: • The upper band is worked first using the corner to corner technique. Once you’ve reached Round 5 in the stocking section, it’s important to measure the stocking inside the upper band to ensure that it’s small enough to fit comfortably. If it’s not fitting well, use a smaller hook size for the stocking. (If you achieve the gauge listed above for both sections, you should have no trouble fitting them together.)
• To work this corner to corner graph, begin with the pixel (tile) in the lower right corner. This will correspond to Row 1 in the written pattern if you’re working from the printable PDF.
• Each pixel in the graph corresponds with one tile in the upper band. A tile = 3 ch (the tch) + 3 dc
• It can be extremely helpful to cross off each row in the graph and/or written pattern as you work it. The graph can can be found here and the written pattern is available for purchase here.
• Because the back of the c2c piece will be hidden inside the stocking, you may choose to take some liberties in how tidy you are with switching colors and weaving in ends.
Using larger hook, complete upper band according to graph pattern.
Fasten off last MC tile and last AC tile leaving a 20” tail on both. Weave in remaining ends.
With RS facing out, fold upper band in half so that the sides meet in the middle. Use a tapestry needle and the tail of AC yarn, seam the sides together with the mattress stitch.
Notes: • The stocking toe is worked in the round in a spiral, meaning that you won’t chain 1 at the beginning of each round. Place a stitch marker in the last stitch of the round to keep track of where a new round begins and move the stitch marker up as you work.
Foundation: Using MC yarn and the smaller hook, make a magic circle.
Round 1: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 11 dc in circle, PM. (12)
Round 2: [1 sc, 1 dc] in first dc, 2 dc in each of next 11 dc. (24)
Round 3: [1 dc in next st, 2 dc in next dc] 6 times. (36)
Round 4: [1 dc in each of next 5 dc, 2 dc in next dc] 6 times. (42)
Round 5: 1 dc in each dc. (42)
Measure toe section inside upper band as described in the overall pattern notes.
Rounds 6-11: Rep Round 5.
Do not fasten off. Remove stitch marker.
Notes: • The heel is worked back and forth in rows, continuing from where the toe left off.After Row 1, the heel will be completed between the two stitch markers.
• The ch 3 at the beginning of a row always counts as 1 dc.
Row 1 (cont. in same direction as toe was worked—do not turn): 1 dc in each of next 11 dc, PM in 11th dc; 1 dc in each of next 20 dc, PM in 31st dc; turn. (20 dc between markers)
Rows 2-4: Ch 3, sk first dc, 1 dc in each of next 19 dc; turn. (20 dc)
Row 5: Ch 3, sk first dc, 1 dc in each of next 7 dc, dc2tog, dc2tog, 1 dc in each of next 8 dc; turn. (18 dc)
Row 6: Ch 3, sk first dc, 1 dc in each of next 6 dc, dc2tog, dc2tog, 1 dc in each of next 7 dc; turn. (16 dc)
Row 7: Ch 3, sk first dc, 1 dc in each of next 5 dc, dc2tog, dc2tog, 1 dc in each of next 6 dc. (14 dc)
Fasten off, leaving a 15” tail.
Fold heel flap in half and use a tapestry needle and the tail from the heel section to seam the back of the heel with the mattress stitch.
Notes: • The ankle is worked in the round just as the toe section was. The first round will be worked along the top edge of the toe section and along the top of the heel section.
• When working into the heel section, place stitches at a frequency of 2 dc in the first row of the heel section, 1 dc in the second row, 2 dc in the third row, and so on to create the necessary 42 dc by the end of the round. (See photo below.)
• As you’re working into the heel rows, instead of working under the first st of each heel row, I find it useful to insert my hook into the middle post of the second dc in each heel row. This ensures that there are minimal gaps created by the intersection of the different rows and rounds. (See photo below.)
Attach MC yarn at the intersection of the heel section and the toe section on the left side of the stocking (right side for left-handed crocheters).
Round 1: Ch 3, 1 dc in first empty dc along top of toe section, 1 dc in each dc along top of toe section edge; dc along top edge of heel as described in the notes above in order to create 42 total dc when you arrive back where you originally attached the yarn. (42)
Rounds 2-13: 1 dc in each dc. (42)
Do not turn.
Row 14: 1 sc in each of next 2 dc, 1 sl st in each of next 2 dc. (4)
Fasten off, leaving a 24” tail.
JOINING UPPER BAND & STOCKING
Place stocking inside top as pictured below. (Nine rows of the stocking ankle should be visible below the upper band.) Pin in place using safety pins or stitch markers.
Using a tapestry needle and a strand of AC yarn, sew top to the stocking, taking care to work small, inconspicuous, stitches into only the AC tiles on the c2c band.
Repeat this process using MC yarn (the tail from the stocking or upper band) and working only into MC tiles on the c2c upper band. I find it looks best to place all your seaming stitches around the top of the stocking edge, which ends up being about the middle of the c2c piece.
You’ll want to create a hanging loop that will be long enough to be sewn to the interior edge of the stocking (not just the upper band) when folded in half. This will make the hanger sturdier and ensure the stocking doesn’t stretch out when hung. For the sample, 30 ch achieved this.
Foundation: Using AC and smaller hook, ch 30 (or the number of chains necessary.)
Row 1: Sk 1 ch, 1 sc each ch; turn. (29)
Row 2: Ch 1, 1 sc in each sc. (29)
Fasten off leaving a 20” tail. Fold hanger in half to form a loop. Place hanger in stocking so that the bottom of the hanger meets the top of the stocking edge. Using existing tail, sew into the stocking and c2c top.
Hang your new handmade stocking by the chimney with care and wait for St. Nicolas soon to be there!
I love to see your finished projects! Use #MakeAndDoCrew and tag me Instagram (@MakeAndDoCrew) to show off your stitches and have a chance to be featured.
Now that you’ve finished your crochet Christmas stocking, here are some more free patterns you might enjoy! (And you can always find all my free Christmas patterns here!)